Top of the World – Back in Canada

July 14^th, 2026

Dawson City, Yukon Territory

Woke normal time and got ready.

Loaded the bike and checked over the room, then rode around to the front of the place.

It was open, so went inside to check out and spent a bit of time talking with the owners.  

More Arizona connections!  Older guy had grown up in Tucson.  Younger guy spent time in Chandler.  And while we were talking, and RV pulled up, and when they came inside, turns out that family was also from Tucson and had seen my AZ plates on the bike.

Once done talking, I got on the bike and headed east.

The road turns to gravel now and for the first few miles, it was a bit tricky.  Very steep hills, tight corners, and road surface was bit rough, and gravel was random in spots.

Then I came upon a section they were actively grading, which tends to make things worse for a while.  Lots of loose dirt, larger rocks pulled up and laying around.  It can smooth out some sections, either grading them down, or filling the holes with dirt, but still rough.

Finally past that the road started to level out some, and gravel became less, so was able to get speed up some.  Still wash boarded badly, but that 32 MPH trick still worked to keep me from being vibrated to death. 

Speaking of vibrations, while I was stopped to take some photos, I noticed another casualty of the rough roads (either the Dalton or recent road).  My headlight bulb was out.  There are 3 bulbs in the housing, a daytime light (dim), the main headlight (on all the time) and the high beam (manual activation only, cannot be left on). 

The main light, which would be very important if I was in the dark, and which I had just replaced about 8 months ago, was out again.  Assuming the vibration?  I will try to look up inside when I get somewhere I can do that, perhaps the wiring just came loose?

Since we do not get dark up here, I can probably get away with it for now, but will need to try getting it fixed when I get down south again where darkness will come upon me.

I reached the junction for the Top of the World highway, and turned off onto it.

Road was again decent, and then suddenly turned into the most wonderfully smooth asphalt!  The last 8 miles to the border were like this.

I stopped along here at the Top of The World roadhouse.  Just a small collection of buildings, but a gift shop and small bit of food and drink.

Lady came up from behind the area, was cleaning the RV.  But was able to buy a Coke and something to snack on.

Had good conversation and then went out and got back on the road.

Pulled up to the Canada border post, the guys came out (2 this time) and while one asked me the usual odd questions, the other reviewed my passport, recorded bike plate and looked over things, I guess.

When done, that guy who seemed a bit more human (other had zero personality and was borderline rude), told me to stop in at the visitor center in Dawson City to get the latest info on the Dempster Highway (I had mentioned that was my first plans in Canada).

I then rolled into Canada and started the last 50 miles to reach Dawson City.

Road was again gravel, but mostly thin gravel on a hard packed base.  Kept decent speed up, though had to be careful with the winds.  There were not many trees up here and when you hit the open spaces the winds would hammer you and push you around.

Finally came down a bit into the trees and things were better.

We then reached the steeper downhill sections that brough you down to the edge of the Yukon River.

Here was the ferry loading zone.

Pulled up into the lane for smaller vehicles.  I could see the ferry on the other side was still unloading, so figured I had a few minutes.

I had noticed a few miles back that the cell service has resumed, so I activated the international data roaming again and was able to get online.

I checked and found a few options for hotels, none of them cheap, so finally booked on and felt a bit more relieved.

Ferry arrived soon after.

The person directing traffic onto the ferry was standing about 100 feet away with a small sign, was difficult to know who she was pointing at.  I started to follow the two cars that she seems to have called forth, but then she got really animated and I finally could see she wanted me to stop.

Then she had a large truck pull into the middle of the ferry, then called me and some bikes farther back in the queue to come up.

We all filled in on the sides of the truck, and then some cars in behind.  The 2 large camper RVs waiting would have to wait till the next ferry.

Pulled out and cross the river in about 3 minutes.

Once on the other side, we all pulled off the ferry and up the hill into town.

I turned off the main highway and went a block over to find the hotel.

Parked in front on the dirt road and went inside. 

Checked in and then found out they really did not have parking like indicated online.

The main parking was just on the streets, but there was a parking lot a block behind that was theirs.

I then found out I was in the annex building across the road as well.

Went out to the bike, saw the building and also noticed it was flatter on that side, and another bike was already in front, so I was able to pull in behind it and park right in front of the doors.

Still had to carry the gear onto the boardwalk, up the stairs, into the entrance foyer, into the main hall, up the stairs and into the room.

So, several trips later I was done and started to cover the bike up.

During that time, the owner of the other bike came out and we talked a bit.  Turns out they had been a group of 3 and things had not been going well.  One of the group members had a death in the family and had to depart sooner. 

This guy and his friend had managed to complete the Dempster, but at a huge cost.

The friend’s bike had broken the frame around the engine, and his bike had blown a fork seal and made a mess of his brake disc and caliper.

He was planning to get his bike fixed down the highway in Whitehorse, but friends’ bike was still a huge unknown.

He asked if I was going to hit the town that night, guess there are quite a few bars and people make the rounds and try to hit the one with the Toe drink challenge. (You have to drink a small glass of whiskey with the mummified toe from ages ago in it and let it touch your lips to get a certificate and belong to the Toe club!) 

I said I might be out tonight, at least would go find food somewhere.

Finished putting the bike away and then went up to change and figure out what I was going to do tonight.

Decided to try a Greek place down the street and also stop at the market to buy some stuff for the room.

Greek place was closed for a private party, but did manage to get my drinks.

Also stopped at the bank to use ATM, as I need to get more Canadian cash. 

But something is preventing my use, keeps telling me my bank declined the transaction.

I will have to deal with it tomorrow since I am staying 2 nights to rest and work on stuff.

Went back to the room, then found that the saloon in the hotel has food, so walked over to that one.  Turns out this is the Toe place as well.

Sat at the bar, tried to order the Nachos, but they were out of them??  Odd thing to be out of since most of the ingredients were used in same foods they were still serving.

Had a chicken sandwich instead and listened to all the people being called up to kiss the toe.  I am thinking I will pass on this, mainly as I do not drink, and not sure I want to alter that just for this odd ritual.

Once done eating, I went back to the room and worked on a few things, but was very tired, so decided to turn in early.

See you tomorrow.

Todays Route: