July 16th, 2026
Eagle Plains, Yukon Territory
Woke normal time and got ready. Packed what I could, but then walked over to see
if the local bank (CIBC) was open.
They were not, so went over to the market and bought some
water as I was nearly out.
Back in the room I filled my pack and bottle and used the
rest to take medicines.
I packed the food and other drinks in the bag and started to
load the bike.
Took a bit of time, but was not in a rush.
While I was packing the bike, I missed the call back from my
bank. So called them back, and spent 30+
minutes on the phone with someone who clearly had no idea what they were
doing. They had to verify my identity like
5 times, and never could answer my question why the ATM withdrawal was not
being allowed.
Only thing they could come up with was that since I was out
of the country and there was no travel alert for Yukon (because they did not
include it in the list of Canada provinces, guess it doesn’t exist?), the
transaction was being denied.
They were going to forward to the card services people, and
I would have an answer in 24 hours, upon which I told them that was useless to
me as I was leaving in less than an hour.
Told them to email me if they found anything or fixed the
damn system, but I would just see if the bank would exchange US cash for Canadian
cash.
Once the bike was loaded up, I checked out of the hotel,
then rode the block down to the bank.
Had to stand in line a bit, fully geared up and sweating profusely. A guy came out to see if he could help, but
since I needed cash, he was not able to do anything.
Finally got my turn and after a bit of paper work and
signatures was able to convert $300 in US cash to just over $400 in Canadian. Seems the exchange rate has either moved back
against me, or this bank was less giving as the last time I took out $400 Canadian,
it was only $280 dollars.
Either way, I had enough local currency to cover me if I
bumped into a place that did not accept cards or did not have internet, both
issues I had read can occur up in these northern parts.
Back on the bike and over to the fuel station.
Fueled up the bike and filled my spare bag as well.
Then parked to the side to adjust a few things and we were
ready to go.
Rode down the street and passed the museum again. As I passed the building with the trains in it,
I noticed it was open, so I did a quick U-turn and parked the bike to go inside
and get a better look.
Spent only about 5-6 minutes inside, took a few photos, and
then back out to get on the road.
It was around 11:00am now, so needed to get going.
Hit the highway a few blocks down and made my way down the
road. Simple highway, few nice views, but
mostly just trees.
Finally reached the Dempster highway turn off.
I stopped to do several things. Needed to put on my other layer and change gloves
as it was colder than I had hoped.
Also wanted to put the socks back on the front forks to help
keep the dirt down.
I organized a few things to better secure them and then used
the port-a-potty on the site….and immediately wished I had not. Never seen a portable outhouse full to the brim!
I then pulled up to the fuel pumps at this un-maned corner
station and topped off my tank. Was not
much, but never pass fuel in these parts when you can get it.
Crossed the highway to do the photos with the Dempster highway
sign, and then headed north.
The road was not too bad, and was making good time for about
an hour or so.
Scenery was great and quickly reached the high point for the
road at just over 4000 feet.
Road started to get a bit rougher, but still manageable,
just slowing me down a bit, but not too badly, and slower just makes my fuel economy
go higher.
I stopped at the Tombstone Park Visitor center, mainly to use the restroom, but did go walk around the building a bit. Mostly interactive displays on the geology and animal life of the park, aimed more for younger people, but still cool. Views from the area were quite nice as well.
Bit down the road I stopped again for views up the valley toward Tombstone Mountain, but the clouds were not going to be nice and show it today.
Bit farther and we started to climb again.
It had been sprinkling now and then the whole ride, but not
enough to really get the roads wet. Till
now.
Not sure if it had just been raining hard before I got
there, or the low clouds had just saturated everything as well, but road turned
to wet, slick, muddy mess.
And the trucks going up and down were just tearing it up
even worse.
I finally had to slow down to 2nd gear, sometimes
even 1st and crawling along at 10-15 mph to avoid spilling the
bike. Even had to walk my feet along a
few times it was so slick.
I stopped near the top of the hills for the viewpoint of the Ogilvie mountains and talked a bit with a guy who was setting up his camper to stay the night on the top. If it had not been raining, I might have put up my tent as well.
It finally started to dry up some, but then the road just turned to crap. Washboard surface, but uneven, would run part way, go away, come back, only cross half the road or run at angles. Then add in all the buried rocks, pot holes in groups of 20-30 with no clean route through or around, and other cracks still filled with water, and the road edges were just soupy mud in most spots, or right on the edge or a 10-foot drop into the trees.
And the it got wet again.
Finally crawled into Eagle Plains about 9:30pm. I started the road at noon. 230 miles (369km) distance.
I went to the hotel and went inside and the front desk was
closed! I did see a sign about talking
to kitchen staff, but about then a guy came up and asked me if I knew about the
gas?
Turns out the fuel station next door, the only gas in the
area, and the other then I would need, was out of fuel!
As we were talking, a guy came out of the door by the desk
and turns out he was the hotel person.
I asked if they had rooms, and they did, so he opened up the
front desk to get me checked in, and the other guy asked about the gas. It was supposed to arrive in the
morning. So, guess we will see. (This is
probably the 3rd or 4th time this season this place has
run out of fuel based on the forums I follow.)
I asked about food, but restaurant was closed, so wouldn’t be
eating tonight except for the pepperoni sticks and left over potato chips I had
in my bag.
I found my room and then found a door closer (I always seem
to get the rooms as far away from the door as possible when I book into a hotel
vs motel.)
Unloaded the bike and decided it was so dirty and muddy I
would just leave the cover off, perhaps the light rain that was still coming
would wash a bit of it off.
Once inside I just tossed everything on the floor, wasn’t going
to be changing clothes or working on anything tonight.
I washed off my rain pants as they were caked with mud, then
took a shower myself as I really needed a hot shower on my sore body.
I then got on the Wi-fi and did a few things and ate my measly
meal (this was actually only food I had all day).
I then organized a few things and recorded a few videos.
Really not sure I will continue this route tomorrow. If it is still raining, then I may see if I
can book a second night and just stay another day, see if it lets up. Or turn back south and suffer another long
day on the road, perhaps stop at the last campsite an hour from the highway and
camp.
Not sure what I want to do.
Feeling a bit down right now between the weather, the horrible roads and
the bikes inability to keep up speed on the rough terrain. Thinking either bike is just not suited for
these roads, or the fork seals leaked out enough to make things not work as
well as they should.
Besides all the bouncing and inability to stay connected to
the ground, the vibrations are being sent up through the grips and my hands and
wrists are taking a beating. I am in agony
with my wrists. (which is why I am typing this the following night actually!)
Now I am going to bed!
Catch ya down the road, just maybe not this road.
Todays Route:
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