Attack of the Dempster – Day 2

July 17^th, 2026

Inuvik, Northwest Territory

Woke up at 8:00 am.

I looked outside and it was bright and sunny, no sign of rain and while things still looked wet, not as bad as they were night before.

I took a shower and then got partially geared up.

Went out to inspect the bike, and decided to clean some of the caked-on mud off with my small brush I brought.

Took a few minutes and was swarmed my mosquitoes doing it, but got a fair amount of dirt off.  Now the lights are visible again, and bike weighs several pounds less.

I did notice the line for fuel was backed up about a dozen cars, and saw the truck near the pumps.  So good sign the fuel has arrived.  I still have an hour of packing and loading, so should be good by time I get ready to go over there.

Had the bike mostly loaded and was putting the final pieces on when a guy walking by asked me a question about the bike.  Guess his dad has same bike.

We started talking, he was a big biker, though this trip he was in a pickup with friends and they were camping along the way.

After about 30 minutes, I had to cut things short so I could get my last items from the room and check out, it was already 10:30.

Grabbed my last things, dropped the key at the desk and then loaded the bike the rest of the way.

Rode over to the pumps which as I thought were no longer busy and fueled the bike and my spare bag. (I had poured the fuel from yesterday into the bike so I could leave the empty bag on the bike to avoid anyone stealing the gas).

I then pulled off to the side to secure the spare fuel and finish getting things setup on the bike.

Then pulled out of the area and headed north.

Yeah, I have decided that with the good weather, and several people telling me the road improves to the north, I would give it a try.

The road started out in pretty bad shape, but it did quickly smooth out some and I could get some better speed. 

I had to pull over almost immediately to change battery in the camera though.  Forgot about that.

Once on the road things went pretty smoothly for the first hour or so.  Then the road started to get a bit bumpy again, but not near a bad as the other day.  So slower, but still doing decent time.

I made a few stops to take photos.  Stopped at the Arctic Circle sign which was not far from the hotel as well.

The road started to get a bit rough again, and had to slow way down, but it only lasted a short distance.  Then a section where the road was still very wet, and slick slowed me a bit more.

I was starting to get tired and sore again.  The only campground on this section was too close to the hotel to be useful; I needed to ride more than 1 hour.  Decided I would make it to Fort McPherson, which is about half way to Inuvik (where I hoped to make it).

Once there I would have lunch, get fuel again and see what I wanted to do.

I had been told things would get better after I entered the Northwest Territory.  That came and went and the road did get wider, and much nicer, but still had some rough spots in it.

I arrived at the Peel River Ferry crossing and had to wait as the ferry was still on the other side.  Once done there, it started back over toward our side of the river.

Took about 10 minutes before it was time for us to board.

Rode up onto the deck and to the front area, behind another bike that was in line before me.

Ferry crossed in about 5 minutes and then the other bike and myself were the first off.

Got going and then about 10 miles up the road I reached the turn into Fort McPherson.

I rode around the town a bit, not sure what all was here.  I saw the fuel stop which was next to a hotel and thought I might stay there.

I stopped to get fuel and went inside to pay.  I saw they had some hot foods you could buy and few drinks and such as well.  I had not seen anything else in town, so this would have to be my lunch stop as well.

I went out and moved the bike from the pumps and then went inside and bought a coke, some chips and a cheeseburger.

Went out and ate standing next to the bike, while fighting off mosquitoes as usual.

Once done, I was actually feeling much better, not as sore and bit of energy again.  The lack of food prior day might have been part of my issue this morning.

Decided to just keep going as it was only around 3pm, so bit early to be stopping.

Got back on the road, which was still doing okay, few rough spots, but the roads in Northwest Territory were in fact better as I had been told.

I reached the MacKenzie River ferry, and this time it was a bit longer wait.  Then once on the ferry, it took about 20 minutes to cross as the ferry also serves a town that sits on the opposite bank of the smaller river feeding into the MacKenzie.

Once we reached the far shore, I was the first one off and got up and out of the loading area.

Once on the open road I was quickly passed by other cars as the road here was a bit heavy with gravel, so could not go as fast.  It has been like this in sections since the last ferry crossing and even a bit before.

The road eventually smoothed out and I was now able to cruise along at nearly the same speeds I would on pavement.  Few spots I had to slow down, but mostly decent road now.

Stopped a few times as needed and then reached the first of 2 campgrounds I had as options if I did not want to keep going.  However, this one was closed, and since I was doing good, would just keep going.

Passed the other campground as I was still good, and only 30 minutes to reach Inuvik, seemed the better option.

The road did get a bit beat up now though as I was coming up on town.  They are working on the road and had graded it on both sides, which really makes things worse.  You have all the dirt piled in the center at times, and all the loose dirt across the road, and worse are all the golf ball sized rocks just laying around now as well.

Had to slow down quite a bit to keep from being knocked over from hitting a rock, or hitting one hard enough to puncture the tire.

Then, about 5 miles from town, the road was suddenly paved!

Made those last few miles in smooth bliss, other than it was getting overcast and cold again.

Turned into town and then pulled off into a park to check my maps to see where the hotels were.  I knew there were at lest 2 or 3 in this small town.

I had already passed one coming in, but did not look like the place I wanted to stay (though when I saw the name, I had did recognize it from several people talking online about it and saying good things.)

I still opted for one of the two in the center of town as they were closer to food and other shops if need.

Stopped at the first of the two and they had rooms open.

So got a room (again, very end of the hallway, and no closer door this time) and started to unload the bike.

I did notice while I was checking into the room that I had cell signal with data here!   I was able to get online without needing Wi-fi.

While I was unloading, I ended up pausing and having a very pleasant conversation with a young woman who was outside.  She had inquired if I was heading back south, and when I said I was still going north, she started to offer me tips on things to do in Tuk (my final destination) which was where she was from.

After 20-25 minutes we said farewells and I finished unloading the bike.

I looked up the restaurants in town, and a few were closed, or would close in just moments, but two were open a few more hours at least.  The one was just a pizza shop, other did little bit of everything, and it was a bit closer, so I chose it.

Decided to just wear my bike gear since it was nice and warm and would block the cold wind better, no point in changing into other clothes for this.

Went outside and secured and covered the bike since I was not going to ride it down for food.

Place was about 5-6 blocks away.

Once there I ordered a spicy chicken sandwich with fries and a drink and ate there at the place.

On the way back I stopped at a small convenience store to buy something to drink and then came back toward the hotel.

While I was walking, I caught up with some lady that had been slowly walking in front of me, and the closer I got the more I realized she must be drunk.  Could not walk in a straight line.

And as I feared, she tried talk to me and kept trying to keep up with me.

I could smell the alcohol a bit, but her slurred talk and continued inability to walk confirmed it.

Missed half what she said and just gave dull answers to the rest, but she kept trying to stay with me and constantly bumping into me as she swayed.

Then she started asking me if I wanted to spend time with her….if you catch my meaning.

I pretty much just said no and ignored the questions, and then she slipped in the dirt and fell down and I used that as my chance to get away and kept walking. (This is when having a very fast walking pace comes in handy).

Turned into the hotel lot and got inside.   Never did see if she had gotten up or not.

Once in the room I took a warm shower and then sorted things a bit so I could find stuff, then got the blog from last night done and this one.

Now I will upload everything and copy footage over before going to bed.

Shorter ride tomorrow, so no rush to leave.  If things go well, then we will reach the Arctic Ocean tomorrow!

Catch ya down the road.

Todays Route: