November 4th, 2026
Galle, Sri Lanka
We woke the morning of November 3rd and did our
usual morning routine of getting ready for the day.
We then packed up a few things and went up for breakfast I
would likely not have a large lunch due to the travel schedule today.
After eating (and basically being ignored the entire time
for some odd reason and only eating the buffet) I returned to my room and
packed everything up except my Kindle.
I then relaxed and read for about an hour before getting up
and finishing the last few things to pack.
My flight was at 5:30PM, I need to be there 2 hours early,
and will take an hour to get there in the local traffic. Checkout time was at 11AM, but I was told I
could stay till 1PM without any additional charges.
It was not about noon, and I decided it was close enough I
was just going to head to the airport and get stuff done and then could relax
and read while waiting.
I checked over the room and then departed and headed to the
lobby.
I checked out of the room, paid my bill for all the food and
few laundry services and then went over to sit down for a bit while I set up
and Uber ride.
I submitted my request in the app and was told a car would
be there in 2 minutes.
So, I got up and watched out the window while watching the
map in the app show how close the car was.
When it turned down the street the hotel was on, I took my
bags outside to the parking lot.
A car pulled up and parked on the other side of the road,
and I was not sure, so had to walk a bit to see the plate and then signal the
guy to pull into the parking lot, not sure why he did not do that, perhaps the
address did not indicate the hotel or he was just following his GPS which may
not have shown the hotel? Odd.
We loaded bags and got into the car and he proceeded to
start driving.
It was slow going getting out of the downtown area, traffic
was really heavy today.
We eventually reached the slightly less congested regions
about half way to the airport.
He had been talking on the phone a bit, but was driving
okay, even being a bit aggressive and keeping us moving instead of waiting for
other cars as much, which I liked.
About half way he started asking me how I was paying, or at
least I think, he grasp of English was pretty much nothing.
I kept trying to tell him I had paid via the Uber app. (They
do give you the option in India of paying the driver directly and you have to
do it that way if you request a tuk-tuk, so perhaps it is not always clear to
the driver?)
He then dug into his wallet and was showing me a 500rupee
note, and trying to ask me something, but I could not figure it out. Not sure if he was saying that was what I
owed (the ride was just under that 470rupee) or if he was trying to pay me to
not take the ride, perhaps he had a better offer with the phone call he was
just on?
I told him I had not clue what he wanted, and he put the
money away and kept driving, though a few minutes later was back on the phone
in a bit of a tense conversation, so no idea, but I was thinking I might not
tip as much for this ride.
We soon arrived near the airport, as I knew that area
already having stayed near there for 2 days.
We finally turned off, though a bit farther south that I
expected, but I was not sure where the main entry was.
We pull up in front of what looked like an airport, but was
clearly not in use, barricaded and weed grown.
This was the old airport terminal.
He then parks the car and gets out without saying a word.
I had to roll window down to open door from outside and he
gets out and again, we cannot communicate.
He flags down a guy on a scooter who did speak English and
with his help I found the driver was trying to aske me to pay another 350rupee
for the airport toll.
We went back and forth a bit, and then I was being told I
could get another car to take me to the actual airport.
Now, I only had 400ruppe left on me, but there was no way I
was paying extra for anything as that cost is supposed to be factored into the
Uber costs (at least it works that way in the west).
I finally told him he could just drop me on the road near
the terminal, and area I had seen, and I would walk up to the terminal and I
know it was possible since John had walked up to it when we were staying at the
nearby hotel 2 weeks back.
The driver then was asking how I was going to pay if I did
not have rupee, and again had to explain I had paid via the app. By now I was getting pissed, this driver was
clearly trying to extort more money from me.
Had the bike rider explain it to him, and that I was going
to report this to Uber.
Driver finally agreed to drop me on the roadside, and we
drove over there, took all of 1 minute.
I got out, he got out and went up to the security person and
started talking, I just opened the trunk, removed my bags, asked the guard if
that was the road to the terminal in front, he pointed and nodded and I left.
The 100rupee note in my pocket I had intended to tip the
driver with stayed in my pocket (and much later he got a 2 star rating with 7
different complaint categories, including asking for toll money, pretty sure he
was not supposed to do that).
As I was walking up the road, I saw the toll gates and while
I could not see all the data as it was not in English, the rate at the low end,
which I would guess would be just for drop offs, was 50rupee, so not only had
he been trying to get me to pay the toll, he was trying to charge me 7 times
the actual rate, so fuck him
Done with him, I walked up the driveway, which was also
uphill, in the heat, for about ¼ of a mile to reach the terminal building.
The Guwahati Airport is a new terminal that was just completed about a year ago. It is quite an impressive building from the outside.
I then got in line to enter (you have to show ID and ticket
to even get inside the terminal).
I was then redirected by a staff to another line that was
shorter and walked over to it and got inside.
I first went to find a toilet as I had to pee really bad.
I then found the Air India desk and there was only 1 guy
sitting there.
I approached and asked if this was where we check in, he
asked if I was on the 5:30 flight and said the desk was closed and would open
in about 45 minutes.
I found a place to sit and played on my phone to wait. I could not see any kiosk to get a pass for
the internet, so just gave up that idea.
When the time came, I returned to the desk and they had
staff now, went up to the business class line and checked in.
It took almost 30 minutes to get my tickets.
The girl working either had no clue what she was doing, or
kept messing things up.
She asked for the passport, and also inquired about a visa,
though I explained I only needed an ETA, so showed her. Though she later had to see it again to type
it in the computer, I guess.
She also kept asking me about Ebola vaccine, and finally had
me fill out a form that was for entering the US (guess we need to attest we
have not been to the Democratic Republic of Congo in the previous 2 weeks),
though why she was asking that for a flight to Sri Lanka I had no clue, but was
just easier to check the box no and sign it.
I finally got my bag checked and the tickets printed (though
later found the print was a duplicate, so she must have messed up the first
print and did them again, I could not see what she was going behind the desk).
I then found the international departure gates, which were
empty, odd.
When I approached, I was told they were closed, would open
in 30 minutes, so again back to a chair to wait.
Once it was time, I went up and then I was told that this
gate was only for an Air India Express flight, that my Air India flight was a
domestic flight (okay, technically true, but my ticket was to Sri Lanka, Delhi
only being a transit airport). If I fly
domestic, they will not be processing my immigration status to exit India.
But they insisted, so I went through the domestic gate and
then saw that the terminals were all the same place, the international did not
go to anyplace different, so not sure why they would not process me there, but
guess I will do it in Delhi when I transfer to the international flight?
I walked up to the lounge, but as I was not sure I could use
this one, since it was not Air India owned, and it was also mobbed by other
people trying to get in.
I decided for 1.5 hours, I would just find a seat somewhere
and wait.
Sat in a nice quiet area near a AC vent (very hot and humid)
and played games again, still could not find kiosk for internet code, and when
I asked information, I was told machine was broken?
I kept checking the boards nearby to make sure gate did not
change, then went down to the gate when it was close.
Then they changed the gate (I thought that was going to
happen, previous flight took too long to leave).
We boarded the plane soon after and took off on time.
Nice business class seats will make this 2.5 hour flight
enjoyable at least.
We had a meal on the plane, and then I just played games or
zoned out and did nothing.
Finally arrived in Delhi and landed, then drove around on
the tarmac for a bit till we reached our gate.
They still unloaded us onto the ground and into a bus. We then drove over to the domestic arrival
terminal.
I had asked the flight staff if they knew what I would need
to do to get stamped out of India, and then recommended I just use the
international transfer area when I arrived.
I had done that when I flew through India on way to Nepal, so not sure
if they can handle a domestic to international, but will give it a try.
Arrived at that entry and when they looked at my pass told
me it was too early. I have a 10 hour
layover here, so I knew I would be waiting, what I was not aware of is that
they do not let anyone inside the gate area before 6 hours prior to a flight.
I asked the guy what I was supposed to do for 4 hours and
was basically told I would wait around the corner in the hallway leading to
baggage claim. Are you fucking kidding
me?
What was Air India thinking, selling me a set of tickets
that I cannot even stay in the airport for, oh, and the business lounge I had
hoped to use, yeah, that’s inside, I cannot access it.
I told them that was not acceptable, but he had not other
info, so told me to go around a corner near baggage claim and talk to Air
India.
So went over there, and right away knew this was going to be
a major fucking issue. I had to leave
the secure zone of the airport, so now I was going to need to go through
security again, but I have time, so whatever.
Approached the Air India staff, explained what was going on,
and she decided it would be me to go upstairs and through the main immigration
checkpoint, where they could handle this (though in hindsight I think she was
just trying to get rid of me).
She took me over to an area and talked with the security and
eventually the agreed to let me through and use the elevator to the 2nd
floor.
I arrived and sure enough, I was in the main departure hall
with all the airline check in counters.
I walked over, found the international departure hallway and
went through the immigration line.
They told me I could not get in until 4 hours before my
flight and that the computer itself would reject my pass, they could not over
ride that.
They did tell me to go speak with the immigration office at
the end of the hallway and they might be able to find a solution.
I went down there, but you cannot actually walk up to the
counter, you are stopped about 10 feet away, and someone will come over to
help….at least that was the idea, but I stood there for 10 minutes before a
lady approached, while several saw me and just ignored me
She told me it was 8 hours before, and nothing she could do,
but then I could get in as they could update the computer. I would have to wait 2 hours, sitting in the
busy, loud, crowded departure hallway.
I found some seats near the edge, but still had several
large groups filing by, but manage to play games or read my kindle for the two
hours without too much annoyance.
When time was ready, I went back to the immigration counter,
was again told 4 hours, and when I explained what I had been told earlier, they
just repeated and said I should talk to the office again.
I returned to office, and again was ignored for a minute, so
I finally asked, quite loudly, if someone could assist me.
The same lady was not there, but a guy came over, and he
basically had no idea what other lady had told me, and said he could not do
anything, but I could talk to the airline who could update something in
computer to allow me through.
So, I had to walk to the far side of the terminal
(literally, I was the farthest away you could get) to reach the Air India
counters.
Explained the issue, and they were baffled as they said they
could not do anything, except move me to an earlier flight if one existed. While this might not be an issue at times, in
this case I would be arriving in the middle of the night in Sri Lanka with no
arranged pick up and was already too late to change those plans, so I said I
could not change my flight times.
They then said I had no choice to wait another 3.5 hours to
get in.
I then asked why I was sold a ticket in business class if I
was supposed to wait in a hallway and they basically just blamed the government
policy, but did not explain why I was sold this ticket if I was not going to be
let into the airport.
Not sure if things would have been different had I had an
international transfer instead of coming in via domestic, but really starting
to get pissed at the Guwahati airport, Air India, and the country of
India. Might be my last trip here if
this insane bureaucracy continues.
I finally said to give me my pass back, and left, not sure I
will ever fly Air India again.
I went over and sat down for a few minutes to calm down,
then decided to go back to the immigration office to ask what the hell they had
been talking about as the airline cannot change anything.
When I arrived at the office, the same lady I had talked to
later saw me, came up and asked for my boarding pass, spent 2 minutes on the
computer, and then told me to wait 5 minutes, then go back to the business
class immigration line (a godsend as the regular lines were a bit busier,
though still not horrible).
I waited the five minutes, and then went over to the line,
which had been empty the whole time until I was ready to walk over, then 5
people go in before me….sigh.
But lines went quick as they had few people working.
I reached the counter and the young girl working took my
pass and I mentioned I hope it works this time.
She had a quizzical look, so I explained a bit of what had
been going on while she reviewed my pass and passport.
She scanned it, and ding, it worked.
She was shocked that Guwahati did not process me there, but
said I should be good. While she was
doing here stuff, I had mentioned my travels and riding bikes and filming
videos and she asked about the YouTube Channel, so gave here a card and she
said she would check it out. (not sure anyone ever does, but have handed out a
few dozen cards in the last few months).
I grabbed my stuff and entered the terminal.
By this time, it was about 12:30AM on the 4th of
November. Took 3 hours to sort this damned mess up.
I walked through the duty-free shops and then reached the
gates area, found the escalator up to the lounges (been here before) and got
inside the lounge and an internet access code.
I then found a seat, used the restroom to wash my face and
dry some of the sweat off from running around the airport in the humid air, and
then grabbed some food and a coke.
Over the next 7 hours I ate a bit, read lots of pages on the
Kindle, played online some, and played a few games to keep me awake, I was
tired enough, but did not really want to sleep so I could make sure I did not
miss flight.
I also got up every hour after 3am to check the boards as I
did not know what gate we would be going through. It finally updated 2 hours before the
flight. The flight was at 7:30, boarding
was to start at 6:30. I left the lounge
at 6:10, after checking the board again to make sure gate was still the same.
It was a bit of a walk to reach, but got there right about
6:30 (thankfully many moving sidewalks to speed things up).
Then I sat there for quite a bit. They finally started the boarding about 6:50.
As business class, I got to board first, and took my seat.
(This A320 was an older model, so still the old-style business/first class with
just he bigger seats, little storage and no TV even.
This time I had someone sitting next too me (last flight
that seat had been empty).
We got loaded up (flight was not even half full) and left
the airport for a 3.5 hour flight.
Once airborne, I was told I could move into Row 1 which had
no one in it, but I had already stored my stuff and got comfy in my assigned
seat, so stayed.
I played games some, but then sort of stared into space and
dozed a bit on the flight. They actually
woke me for the breakfast meal shortly after take off, I had dropped off that
fast.
However, while I tried to actually sleep, I could never last
more than about 15 minutes before I woke for some reason.
We arrived in Sri Lank and landed (quite roughly), then
arrived at the terminal in short time.
After getting off the plane, there was a short walk before
we reached a small area with some shops and information counters before you
reached the immigration gates. I have
never seen anything before immigration at any other airport, kind of odd.
While I walked past, a girl at the counter asked if I needed
SIM card, which I did, so went ahead and stopped to by a local SIM (cost me $20
for a 30 day unlimited plan of voice, SMS, and data).
They even took US currency, so could pay with that instead
of using card since I did not have local money yet (and did not see any option
to do that here).
I then went to the immigration counters, which were nearly
empty, approached the first window, she took my passport, asked me to remove my
hat, never even looked at the ETA document on my phone (guessing it was linked
on the computer since I filled it out online) and stamped me in.
Probably the fastest immigration I have ever seen, though a
few have been quick, never this fast.
I then walked over to an empty space to put away some of the
stuff I had in my hands and then walked down the hall toward the bag claim
I arrived just as the bags started to come out. I did wait for about 5 minutes though for my
bag to arrive.
It was quite dirty but in one piece, and did not appear it
has been opened or tampered with.
I grabbed bag, and walked toward customs.
As I had nothing to declare I used the green lane, and at
the end they were still x-raying bags.
I large family was unloading dozens of bags into that
machine, and a guy behind me asked if he had to wait and guard just said to go
through, so I and a few others did just that.
Once out in the arrival hallway I saw the line of people
with signs waiting to pick up people.
I glanced at most but did not see my name, so using my phone
I was able to message the group chat on WhatsApp if I should be looking for
something specific or meeting somewhere else.
Ben replied right away that I should have someone waiting
and he would check.
A minute later I saw a guy walk up to the barrier and hold
out a sign, this one with my name on it.
I linked up with him, let Ben know I found him, then we went
outside.
Guy had not been ready as our flight had arrived 15 minutes
early, and with the small passenger list, we got out of the airport really
fast, even with my stop to buy SIM card.
He asked me to wait on a curb while he went to get the car.
Once he arrived, I got in back and we left for the 2.5 hour
drive to Galle where the ride will start from.
The driver had lots of questions and we ended up talking
about all kinds of topics on the way.
He was quite knowledgeable about many subjects and spoke
very good English, which helped the conversation along.
The ride was uneventful otherwise, and we eventually arrived
in Galle and made our way through the busier traffic to reach the hotel where I
would be staying next 2 nights.
We pulled up at the front entrance, unloaded the bags, and
then I was taken inside by the staff who were expecting me.
I was sat in a lobby area while they gathered a few things,
then signed some papers. I was presented
with a welcome drink, and then they took me to the room. Passed a small pool with fish and turtles in it, and two of the turtles were enjoying themselves.
Host showed me where stuff was in the room and then left me.
I sat for a bit to relax in the AC, then sorted the bag a
bit, then I left a message on WhatsApp that I was there.
I then got a message on WhatsApp from one of the couples on
this ride (Brian and Alison). They had
been in Sri Lanka for several weeks doing other things, and had arrived at the
hotel the night before.
They were going to walk into town about an hour and asked if
I wanted to join, which I agreed to as I needed to stay active so I could stay
awake till evening, otherwise I would mess my sleep schedule up. While I was still in same time zone, the
overnight flight and layover had me awake for over 30 hours at this point, so I
needed to make it a good 40 hours at least before I slept to get back on a
normal day schedule.
I met them in the lobby and we walked down the hill (the
hotel sits on top of a steep hill with some good views of the area).
We then walked along the coast for a bit to reach the old
Dutch fortress (also used by the British) and went inside.
This area is built up as a tourist area, so lots of shops
and dining options, and many western style foods as well. Bit pricey here though. I found many of the prices, when converted to
US Dollars, were not much less than I would pay for the same item back home.
We wandered over to the edge of the walled area where the
lighthouse is and where you can get up and walk on the walls where some of the
old gun placements had been.
We walked to several sections of the wall to look out over the waters and take a few photos.
We then went over to have a drink in a small restaurant.
When done there we walked around a bit more, then decided to
stop for another drink in a different place.
After that, we wandered around to find an ATM so I could get
some local currency.
But same issue I had in India, the ATM would not process,
though I later saw the transaction had been recorded by my bank (something that
never happened in India), so communication had occurred, some other error had
canceled the transaction, perhaps machine was out of funds?
I was a bit worried as the email notices I get on my cards
indicated the funds had been taken out.
Alison said that had happened to them at the same banks ATM once and it
was returned really fast later.
I will check my statements later and see what happened. (I
checked the next day and was fine, it was refunded moments later after the ATM
cancelled the transaction).
I then saw a sign about a money exchange, and since I had
some US currency on me, figured that would be faster, and the fees so far have
not been much worse than the ATM in most countries I have been in this trip (in
Nepal the ATM was actually worse).
We walked down the road till we found the sign, but was a
bit confusing as the business was actually just gem and jewelry store, but the
guy inside must have seen us pointing at the sign as he came out and indicated
we has the right place. Just another
business within the main one.
Guy at a table showed me the rates and I was confused by
them. They had it listed as 331rupee for
$100, which was about 100 times too small.
Eventually we figured out that what they had written as $100 was
actually $1.00.
So, in the end I got 33000rupee for my $100.
This should get me by for my time on the tour, though might
need some more for my time after the tour since prices here in town are a bit
high, though should be less inland while riding.
I then got to talking with the guy, and after a few minutes
Brian and Alison came inside and let me know they were going to go to a coffee
shop down the road, but I said I could go with them, we had just been chatting
about travelling.
We left the shop and walked around to find a restaurant for
dinner.
We came upon a middle eastern place which had good ratings
on google, and even a sign out front about their Conde Nast award.
So, we decided to eat there after taking a peek at the menu.
Ordered our drinks and then decided on a mezze platter for
appetizer and then each had an entrée.
I had the Harissa Tagine, which was a really good Moroccan
dish.
After dinner, we walked back to the hotel in the dark and with a light rain going on. We did take a different gate out of the fortress which had a much large view of the old walls.
Once back at the hotel, we agreed to meet at the rooftop bar after a few minutes.
I returned to my room to use the toilet and then to change
into cooler clothes. I had worn one of
my long sleeve shirts and most airplanes are too cold, but did not want to
carry the jacket around with me as it would be too warm everywhere else, even
the long sleeves were a bit much outside.
I also changed into shorts as my pants were a bit damp from
the light rain we had walked back in.
I met them on the 4th floor (roof) and we had
some drinks while we continued to talk.
Then it was time to turn in.
I went down and spent about an hour reading before I went to
bed about 10PM.
Tomorrow is the first day of the tour, but is just the
arrival day, though oddly we are all here early. However, we will have the first group dinner
tomorrow and get the details of the ride then.
Then on Friday the 6th we will leave on the
bikes!
So will catch you down the road.



















