Hey everyone.
So the summer heat is here in AZ, so not sure how much I will go ride, but we did complete our ride in the Himalayas of India last month in June. I will be making a separate blog for that trip and will link it here when done. I will do a quick highlight though for you.
It took almost 2 days to get to India (when you factor in time zone changes). A total of about 20 hours of actual flight time and 7 hours sitting at transfer airports between the 2 flight legs.
Got into Delhi very late on Sunday (around 10pm). Took roughly 2 hours to get out of airport, most of that used up in Immigration.
A car was waiting for me to take me the mile down the road to the hotel, and by time I checked into that it was nearly 1am on Monday.
Next morning I had breakfast and then hung out in the room till it was close to check out time. Then checked out and went down to lobby where I met another rider who was also staying at this hotel (which by random luck turned out to be the hotel where the group would meet up to start our tour).
We all met up about 1pm and had lunch while the tour was discussed, final payments were made and documentation handled.
The organizers had procured 6 taxis to drive us the approximately 400 miles to Manali. We departed a little after 3pm.
17 hours later we arrived in Manali!!!
So a quick nap, then lunch, then we got to check out the bikes, take them for a test ride (and to fuel them up so ready for morning departure the next day) and then dinner and hanging out in the garden area of the hotel.
So now after nearly 4 days of activity, we finally got to start riding the bikes.
Day 1: We rode out of Manali via some back roads into the hillsides, then eventually hit the highway. Later went up over a small pass (only about 10,000 feet) and then to a campsite in an old farm field on the edge of the forest areas.
Day 2: We rode down to the highway and followed it till we turned off to ride up to Chitkul along a road hanging from the cliffs. Then we came back down that road a short way and camped that night in a campground.
Day 3: We came back down to highway, then after a short ride went up the mountain side to reach Nakla where we had to get our Inner Line Permits. We also had lunch here. Took roughly 3 hours for all that, then was back down to the highway and stayed on that till we reached Nako for our hotel stay. (Tonight one of the riders had some issues and decided to leave the tour).
Day 4: We left Nako and after a permit check we then went off a side road to visit a temple with a preserved mummy, then back to highway and a stop at a monastery. Then we rode off into the back country at Pin Valley National Park and camped along the river at a camp area deep into the park.
Day 5: Rode back out to the highway and then on to near Kaza where we took a ride up to Komic Village at 15,000 feet. There we had some tea and sat for awhile, then came back down via another route to see a large Buddha statue, and then back to Kaza to reach our hotel.
Day 6: Left Kaza and visited the nearby Key Monastery. Then off along the rough highway over Kunzum pass (just over 15,000 feet). On the other side we went off on another rough road to reach Chandrataal (Moonlake) where you could hike a mile or so up to the lake (I chose not to do this). We then stayed at a campground nearby camped at close to 15,000 feet which was our highest camp I believe.
Day 7: Back down to the rough highway for what was probably the most technical riding along a barely visible trail over rocks and dirt (and yes, this is still a highway!). We eventually reached the paved route of the Manali-Leh Highway and went up the road to Sissu and our hotel.
Day 8: We rode up the Manali-Leh highway to our first pass (Baralancha-La) which was nearly 16,000 feet. Then back down and across the high mountain route to Sarchu where we camped at a campground for the night.
Day 9: We left for the longest ride we would have (250km) in a single day that would include 3 passes (all between 14,000 and 16,000 feet), each of the 3 slightly higher than the last, plus a long stretch of high plains between pass 2 and 3. We then came down into the river valley along the better surfaced highway (much of this route was paved, but not in best of shape) and into Leh and our hotel.
Day 10: Today was a rest day with no riding as we had to change the bikes out for new bikes with a different company (regional monopolies and such). We spent much of the day walking around the shopping/market district in Leh and having some good non-Indian food for once (by this time many of us had grown tired of Indian fare, and for myself, it had not been agreeing with me for much of the trip anyway, even though it tasted amazing!)
Day 11: Today we made our attempt to go over Khardung-La and into the Nubra Valley. This was the highest pass on the trip at close to 18,000 feet. However, it was raining when we left Leh and at higher altitude that meant snow. The pass was not allowing motorbikes or some cars from going over at the security checkpoint. After waiting around for 30 minutes, the group came back down out of the cold and most of us decided to return to Leh as it was not looking like we would be able to make it over, or at least not in time to reach the Nubra valley for our camp. A few decided to go back up to the checkpoint and wait, at least hoping to make the top of the pass (they did, but only after another 3 hours waiting). Rest of us just enjoyed another afternoon/evening hanging out in Leh.
Day 12: Since today would have been our return trip from the Nubra Valley, there was no riding planned, so we all decided to make a 2nd attempt at reaching the top of Khardung-La to at least say we did that. Again the weather up high was not as nice (though much better today) and the security would not let motorbikes go up. We waited for about 3-4 hours and then many of us decided that was enough. Weather started to get worse, so we figured it was not going to happen. A few did stay and about 2 hours later they did get the chance to go up, but I had enough of the cold and had come down with the rest of the group earlier and just spent more time in Leh. (Today 2 of the riders made the decision to leave the tour as they were tired and wore out and decided they had done all they came to do).
Day 13: We rode out of Leh and then up and over Chang-La pass which was around 17,500 feet. We then came down the other side and reached Pangong Lake, the highest salt water lake in India. Only 4 of us made the trip to the lake, and a few others had come up the pass, but then returned to Leh. We camped along the lake in a large camp ground complex that night. (3 of the riders decided to leave this day as well as they were not interested in the last days of the tour).
Day 14: Rode back up and over Chang-La to return to Leh and our hotel. The group then all proceeded to have dinner together. Most of us had flights back to Delhi in the morning (except 2 who had opted to spend an extra night in Leh on their own).
The next day I had a noon flight from Leh to Delhi which was mostly smooth, though still an interesting experience. Arrived in Delhi and took a cab over to the hotel nearby and met up with another of the riders who I had agreed to share a room with till we both departed. Today was Wednesday and my flight back to the US did not depart till late on Friday and the other guy did not leave till Saturday morning.
After arriving in Delhi and having lunch, much of the rest of the day was spent in the room sleeping or watching TV as we were both wore out at this point.
On Thursday, we both took an excursion from Delhi by train over to Agra and visited (all part of the organized tour for just the 2 of us) the Taj Mahal, the Agra Fort, and a few local shops dealing with local crafts. This trip included lunch and the guide for all the sites. Was quite an amazing time and then we took train back to Delhi and had dinner.
The next day the other guy met up with his friend (who had spent an extra day in Leh) and they explored Delhi. I stayed at hotel, as I was originally going to check out and go to the airport and spend the day waiting there since I was going to do my PCR testing there. However, since the PCR test requirement was ended while I was in India I decided not to waste my time doing that or sitting at the airport all day, so I extended the hotel stay another night so I could spend day in the room to re-pack my bags and rest some more. Then after dinner with the other two (the guy who was sharing room with me moved over to the other guys room now) I checked out and left to the airport. After going through some not too horrible lines there I then waited to board flight which thankfully was only delayed a short bit before we took off just after midnight.
Spent the next 15 hours in flight, then had a 13 hour lay over in Montreal (which became 14 hours), and then a 5 hour flight back to Phoenix.
Once back in AZ I got home and pretty much slept for the next 30 hours!
Over all an amazing experience, and the other blog will have far more detail and photos and video as well.
Already trying to decide on a trip for next year (other than my own riding around AZ and the western states which I will try to start getting more time with as things cool off).
Till next time.
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